Friction is chemistry before it is technique: dry skin on cold rock holds, sweaty skin on lukewarm rock slips, and no amount of training makes up the difference. Serious attempts are therefore scheduled around shade and wind, not around appointments. If the pitch falls into shade at two, by two you need to be warm, taped and with the beta rehearsed: the good window lasts an hour, sometimes less.
The calendar of a project
A project at your limit has its own calendar, and you respect it the way you respect a wet crack. In high summer you work the moves, memorise the jams, try it in sections knowing the link-up will not come. Then the air changes, usually around mid-September, and the crimps that felt greasy in July become real holds again. That is when months of work get cashed in, often in a single attempt.
People who come to the crag from outside sometimes mistake this waiting for laziness. It is the opposite: waiting for the right condition is the most disciplined part of the climb, the one where nothing visible happens and almost everything is decided. The rest, when the wind turns north and the skin bites, lasts a few minutes.